Wrapping Monaco – wow

And so … that’s a wrap! Wow, what an incredible week of sailing (and not sailing), tourist-ing, great meals, friends, and experiences. And to have one race day with three races and end up 28th in the World, well, that’s just special…

Here’s a beautiful shot of the fleet out racing, with Monaco in the foreground…

Aerial shot of 90+ J/70s out racing

And finally, the Yacht Club de Monaco created this video summary of the last and only day of racing…

How did I get here? – stay tuned for more!

OMG – 28th overall!

So this you will not believe. At all. The ultimate “how did I get here” moment…

Today we did race – three solid races – and we did great, finishing 28th overall! Out of 90 boats … the best in the world. Wow. We also finished 3rd in the so-called “one pro” division! (Matti is a pro; three quarters of the fleet had at least one pro, and over half had more than one professional aboard.)

This far surpassed anything we had hoped for, amazing. I have to say the crew worked together unbelievably well; we came together only for this regatta, had one day of practice, and today was our first racing day. Yay, us.

hey there’s wind! – getting ready to go out and race

Sadly I have to report … my iPhone died! Yes it did. I think maybe I had a crack in the back, and water got in, and … yeah. So no pictures except for what I could get from others. Not too many anyway because, you know, racing 🙂 Stay tuned more may dribble in.

The highlight among all on this great day was our last race; we rounded the first weather mark in the top ten (!) and held on for a top fifteen finish. Matti made great calls to navigate through traffic, make it out to the left side, and then take advantage of more pressure and a nice overall shift to the left. It was amazing rounding ahead of 80+ boats and seeing all those chutes … behind us!

at the trophy presentation – Yacht Club de Monaco
slide show with drone shots of the race played before the ceremony
we are announced! – Outlier, third in the One Pro division
(and 28th overall – woo hoo)
our spoils

Well *that* was a pretty incredible ending to a pretty incredible week.

And so now onward – I am heading back home via Barcelona, by way of Carcassone, Marepoix, and Andorra. Whew.

Cannes

And so in the “have lemons so make lemonade” category, after another day of not enough wind to race, I took off for Cannes!

in Cannes – adorable

Unfortunately I didn’t have too much time – the Race Committee’s decision to give it a try brought us back in around 4:30 – but I tried to make the most of it.

“interesting”

I guess it’s not a breakthrough observation that Cannes is nice (see what I did there) but it is. Great for walking around, having a drink, and then having a nice dinner. Which I did do.

great place for a drink – suggest “Le Carl” which tastes amazing
… and will knock you over
dinner!

I chose a place called l’Affable for dinner and while the name may indeed be, the food was amazing and the service and staff very friendly. One might almost say … affable. Highly recommended.

And so I may ask myself, etc. And now onward to Sat, the last day of the regatta and the last chance for actual racing!

Four lost days in a row!

So today dawned bright and hopeful. Surely there would be some wind today?

morning has broken

But … no!

the racing fleet sits idle

We ended up spending the whole day waiting … also wondering if it was going to rain, which yes it did a bit …

kind of a fun statue on the waterfront, which I had all day to explore

A fun part of this day was a visit from the Prince of Monaco! He dropped by to say hello to everyone while we were waiting for wind.

Toward the end of the day, just as everyone was about to give up, the Race Committee decided “hey let’s give it a try”. So everyone got dressed and sailed out to the race course. But … still no wind. We bobbed around for a while, and finally the committee admitted “yes, we have no wind”, and we came in.

the fleet heads out to give it a try … but still no wind
100 J/70s bobbing around, waiting for enough wind to race

A lost day. Another one.

Well not totally lost. Because … then I went to Cannes!

Sanremo and Ventemigila

Okay, so no racing, boo, and onward to Italy, yay. All the Italians here said “don’t waste your time with Ventemigila (first city on Italian side of border), continue on to Sanremo”. So … I taxied to Sanremo.

no matter where you find yourself…

And found … nothing! I knew about Sanremo from the annual Milan-Sanremo cycling race – it looks nice from TV helicopter shots – but to be there, meh. Okay, I stopped at a little bar next to the harbor, but it was nothing special, and the environment did not look promising. So…

… there you are (nice YC here 🙂

Headed back along the coast – beautiful! – and stopped at the Grand Hotel del Mare in Bordighera for a drink. Dated and kitschy, but in a neat way. Time to kill before dinner, and a nice drink with a nice view is always … nice 🙂

I think this town is Bordighera
Grand Hotel del Mare
the patina of a bygone era
well here’s a nice spot 🙂
nothing to see here, move along

And then back to Ventemiglia! And it was cute. And nice. And interesting. Cooler than Sanremo, by far. Moral: people don’t realize how nice they have it 🙂

In Ventemiglia – how cute is this?

After a bit of tooling around, I ended up at a restaurant called Balzi Rossi, which is just – just! – the Italian side of the border. (I mean, you can literally see the French border from the windows.). Nice view of the water – nice view of Menton, where I was yesterday – and a beautiful seafood dinner.

destination: dinner: right over the border into Italy
this gentleman was super nice, as was his wine

I think this makes (counts on fingers) five great dinners in a row? Wow.

So not a lost day, at all, but let’s hope for enough wind to go sailing tomorrow!

yet another day of no

Could you schedule a major sailing championship and have three consecutive days of no wind? Well yes, apparently. Today dawned with some meteorological optimism, but in the end again no wind, certainly not enough to race. Rats!

the very picture of “no wind”

Today we didn’t even get to go out and pretend, the Race Committee went out for us, and gave periodic reports. I got pretty bored – have already bought everything I wanted to buy, taken pictures of everything I wanted to shoot, and visited everything there is to visit. Did not think I’d be bored sailing in Monaco, but there you are. As this is being typed I’m awaiting final word before heading out to Italy!

yeah, did get a chance to re-visit the shopping area up on Monte Carlo 🙂
oogling the superyachts of the .01%-ers
this one is a mere 300′ long – wow
this is more to my liking – the Royal Flagship of the Yacht Club (from 1909)
and the fleet sits idle, waiting for a chance to race…

Well stay tuned, there will be a bit more tourist-ing ahead, and keep your fingers crossed for tomorrow!

Cap Martin and Menton

So … off to visit Cap Martin! (What does it say about this sailing trip that it’s been much more about the trip than the sailing, at least so far?)

Monaco in the middle, Cap Ferrat and Nice to the left, Cap Martin and Menton to the right

We tend to think of Monaco as being on the border between France and Italy, but actually there is some France to the East of Monaco: Cap Martin and Menton. See the map!

I did the old “hey taxi driver, show me your town” thing, asked my driver to take me to Cap Martin, and in fact we went all the way to the Italian border. And then I had the dinner of the world at Ceto, high high up on a hill overlooking Monaco to the West, and Cap Martin to the East.

view of the hillside leaving Monaco and entering Cap Martin
what is that hideous building on the skyline?

Immediately upon leaving Monaco you enter a much prettier and less developed area, typical Cote d’Azure, hotels and beaches, but not urban sprawl.

street scene in Roquebrune heading to Cap Martin
there it is again – high on the hill – what?
a modern castle above Cap Martin
posing in front of Roquebrune bayfront as seen from Cap Martin
entering Menton
the old town – hmm, how to get in there?
at the Italian border

We drove back past Menton Old Town – no cars allowed – and I stopped and (after a bit of puzzlement – where is an entrance?) walked in. So cool!

walking in Menton Old Town
a nicely renovated old church
chapel for the seminary
note the For Sale sign – I was tempted
on the road back and up to Cota … and what is that on the hill?
there it is – the Maybourne Hotel – and Ceto is *in* it!

My comment about the Maybourne Hotel – okay, it’s ugly, and bold, and shouldn’t be there. But at least the inside is beautiful, and when you’re inside you don’t have to look at the outside.

And the Ceto restaurant on the top floor is out-of-this-world!

Ceto sunset – looking West over Monaco
and the corresponding view East over Roquebrune, Menton, and Italy
Monaco at night
view into the freezer – yummy
OMG – say cheese!
an interesting wine called Abyss which is aged under the Sea

Well that was fun! At least the tourist part of this trip is holding up… let’s hope the sailing does too, tomorrow …!

Yeah, no

After three hours of delays waiting for wind, there was a breath of air – the flags started moving – wisps of cloud blowing overhead – and the Race Committee decided to give it a try. The whole fleet slowly made their way out on the water and motored out to the race course.

a Norwegian team were the first ones out. Note flags in the background.

Well that was good and all very exciting but in the end, after drifting around for an hour in light winds, the Committee called it for the day. So frustrating for them; all that planning and then the weather doesn’t come through.

the fleet sits and waits … Monaco in the background
note the lack of wind on the water
trying to fly the chute
headed back in … view of the Monte Carlo waterfront
the hideous building on the left with the pilings showing is the Fairmont
just to the right is the horrible new construction out on the water

Okay, well that was fun … looks like it is time to be a tourist again … maybe now I head over to Cap Martin?

Day two – more no wind

Rats! It’s midday of Day Two of the Worlds, and still no wind.

another beautiful day dawns, but no wind in sight

The competitor briefing was somber as the Race Committee and fleet contemplated another day of sitting around. They will make hour by hour delays until 1500, then call it for the day.

I feel for the organizers you spend months indeed years preparing and the one thing you cannot control is the weather.

Had a chance to chat with my friend and sometime coach Willem Van Waay; he is J/70 royalty having been a part of the last three World Champion crews. We talked about sailing in Florida next year 🙂

with Willem Van Way

Well that’s the news for now … stay tuned (and please root for wind!)

Waiting with Outlier for wind

dinner at Chateau Esa

On my way to Monaco I stopped by the delightful medieval mountaintop town of Eze, and tonight I had dinner there, at Chateau Esa. The meal was only just okay, good but overpriced, but the views where unbelieveable.

a pictorial map of Eze … #19 is Chateau Esa
at the very tip of the mountain, basically hanging off the side
inside the charming church
the Place du Planet
I don’t think there is a Plan B 🙂

I hiked up and into the restaurant at the perfect time for the sunset. Wow.

timed perfectly! – what a sunset

In the distance on the left, Cap Ferrat, with Nice around the corner to the right. Further off in the distance, Cap d’Antibe, and then Cannes…

And you may ask yourself …

How did I get here? 🙂